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Aglianico is the grape southern Italy kept to itself for two thousand years. The ancient Greeks probably brought it, the Romans drank it, and the volcanic hills of Campania and Basilicata have been growing it ever since. It is dark, powerful, fiercely tannic and built to age, which is why people call it “the Barolo of the South”.
It is not a wine for a Tuesday night pizza. It is a wine for a slow Sunday roast, a decanter, and at least one person at the table who will say “now THAT is a red. Give it time and it rewards you like few grapes on Earth.
Table of Contents
What Does Aglianico Taste Like?
Black cherry, plum and blackberry wrapped in smoke, leather, dried herbs and a distinct volcanic minerality. Young Aglianico is a wall of tannin with bright acidity behind it; with age it softens into tar, tobacco, dried fruit and something almost savoury, like a good beef stock. It is full-bodied, dry and serious.
| Aspect | Rating out of 5 | Characteristic |
|---|---|---|
| Sweetness | 🍷 | Predominantly dry, with an echo of ancient vineyards |
| Body | 🍷🍷🍷🍷🍷 | Full-bodied, as profound as a philosopher’s musings |
| Tannins | 🍷🍷🍷🍷🍷 | Bold and structured, like the walls of an old Roman villa |
| Acidity | 🍷🍷🍷🍷🍷 | Notably high, adding a lively contrast to the depth |
| Alcohol by Volume | 🍷🍷🍷🍷 | Typically 13–15%, as warming as a Mediterranean sun |
Each wine glass icon is one point on a 5-point scale: one glass is low, five is high, based on the grape’s typical style.
Where It Grows
Campania and Basilicata in southern Italy, above all. Taurasi, in the hills east of Naples, makes the most famous and longest-lived version. Aglianico del Vulture grows on the slopes of an extinct volcano in Basilicata and is often a little softer and more perfumed. Both are DOCG, Italy’s top classification, and both age for decades.
Australia has taken to Aglianico more than most countries. Chalmers in Heathcote pioneered it, and there are now good plantings in the Barossa, McLaren Vale, the Riverland and the King Valley, where the heat suits a grape that ripens late and stubbornly. Australian versions tend to be riper and a touch friendlier than the Italian originals, which is no bad thing for a first bottle.
How to Serve It
Temperature: 16–18°C. Warmer than that and the alcohol takes over; cooler and the tannins clench.
Glass: a large Bordeaux-style bowl to give the tannins room; the glasses roundup covers the options.
Decanting: yes, and generously. A young Aglianico wants an hour or two in a decanter; our Riedel Cabernet decanter review shows the sort of vessel that suits it.
Ageing: this is one of the great cellar grapes. Taurasi needs five to ten years to start showing its best and can go thirty. Australian versions are approachable sooner but still improve for a decade.
What to Eat With It
Big food. Slow-roasted lamb, braised beef, goat, rich ragù, aged pecorino and anything that has spent hours in the oven. The tannin needs protein and fat to soften against, so keep it away from delicate dishes. Mushroom dishes and salami boards also work. More in the pairing guides.
Celebrated Wine Labels
| Wine Label | Country | Style |
|---|---|---|
| Feudi di San Gregorio | Italy | Modern Taurasi, polished and widely available |
| Donato D’Angelo | Italy | Aglianico del Vulture, traditional and robust |
| Mastroberardino | Italy | The historic family that saved Taurasi |
| Paternoster | Italy | Vulture pioneer, deep and mineral |
| Terredora di Paolo | Italy | Elegant Taurasi from the Mastroberardino lineage |
Can’t Find One? Drink This Instead
Honesty corner: our partner shop had no Aglianico in stock when we checked. The closest match in shape is a structured Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon: full body, firm tannin, dark fruit and a real need for a decanter and a roast.
Murray Street Wines Greenock Estate Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon 2020
Not Aglianico, but a serious Barossa Cabernet brings the same weight and grip to a Sunday roast. When a Taurasi or Australian Aglianico lands in stock, it takes this spot.
- Full-bodied and firmly tannic, the same job Aglianico does at the table
- Single-estate Barossa fruit with a few years of bottle age already
- Built for lamb, beef and a decanter
- Fair price for an estate wine with age on it
- Riper and more cassis-driven than Aglianico's smoky, volcanic style
Frequently Asked Questions
Should you drink Aglianico now or age it?
Both, depending on the bottle. Everyday Australian Aglianico and basic Campanian versions drink well after a couple of years and a long decant. Taurasi and top Vulture wines are made to be cellared and are often unfriendly before their fifth birthday. If in doubt, buy two and open one early.
Is Aglianico a red or white wine?
Red, deeply so. It is one of the darkest-coloured grapes in Italy, with thick skins that give it all that colour and tannin. There is no white Aglianico, though a few producers make a rosé from it.
What are some interesting facts about Aglianico?
It was very likely brought to Italy by Greek settlers around 700 BC, making it one of the oldest cultivated grapes in the country. Taurasi was the first southern Italian wine to gain DOCG status, in 1993. And it ripens so late that harvest often runs into November, when most Italian grapes are long in the tank.
To which wines is Aglianico similar?
Nebbiolo is the closest match for structure and ageing power, which is where the “Barolo of the South” nickname comes from. Cabernet Sauvignon and Sagrantino share its tannin; Syrah shares its smoky, savoury side. Read our Nebbiolo guide for comparison.
Where does the name Aglianico originate from?
The popular story is that it comes from “Ellenico”, the Italian word for Hellenic or Greek, a nod to its supposed Greek origins. Some scholars now doubt that and point to a Spanish-era spelling change, but the Greek story is the one every Campanian winemaker will tell you.
For the only Italian grape more tannic than Aglianico, read our Sagrantino guide.
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